I know that Boeuf Bourguignon is so last year. With its late summer release in 2009, “Julie and Julia” made it a popular comfort food last fall. I don’t care; I want to write about it anyway. I love it and have been making it for years. And, although I adore Julia Child, own many of her cookbooks and regularly cook from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”, her boeuf bourguignon is not my favorite. It is not without comparing and contrasting Julia’s version with others that I arrive at my conclusion.
Originally, a peasant dish, Boeuf Bourguignon has worked its way into the haute cuisine. It was originally a way to tenderize tough cuts of meat (and how can you go wrong with anything browned in bacon fat and simmered in an entire bottle of red wine?). Georges Auguste Escoffier is credited with the first published recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon in the early 20th century. Since then, it has undergone subtle transitions as times have changed and cuts of meat have gotten tenderer.
My first introduction to Boeuf Bourguignon or Boeuf à la Bourguignonne or Beef Burgundy came after throwing a party during which a bottle of red wine was opened and left untouched. The next day, I decided that I needed to cook with red wine and came upon a recipe for Boeuf Bourguignon. It called for a bottle of red wine and that was all the encouragement I needed. It was delicious! After making it the first time, I decided to experiment and try other recipes to see which I liked best.
I have tried three recipes for Boeuf Bourguignon: Julia’s from “Mastering the Art of French Cooking”, a slow cooker recipe of forgotten origin and Tyler Florence’s from “Tyler Florence’s Real Kitchen”. Hands down, the winner for me if Tyler’s version (and no, not because he is one of the hottest chefs on TV).
Those who know me well know that I am an analytical creature, so my choice has been made not just from the taste test but also from taking a close look at the ingredients and cooking methods to see why I like one better than the other. So let’s get to the meat (boeuf?) of the matter and talk about what, in my opinion, makes a good Boeuf Bourguignon.
One of the most important steps of making a good Boeuf Bourguignon is browning the meat. All three recipes agree on that point. You have to get the meat browned on all sides, preferably using bacon fat. The time I spent browning the meat, meant the slow cooker was out. To me a slow cooker is best used when there is no other cooking involved (just throw everything in the cooker and turn it on). If I am going to spend 20 -30 minutes browning meat before putting the ingredients in the slow cooker, why bother? The slow cooker recipe was not much of a time saver and didn’t taste as good. End of slow cooker story.
Both Julia’s and Tyler’s recipes require full browning of the beef in bacon fat. Both require similar processes and ingredients; Tyler’s, however, calls for ¼ cup of cognac, 2 tablespoons of tomato paste and finishing the dish with 2 tablespoons of butter (Julia omits the cognac and butter and calls for only 1 tablespoon of tomato paste). The cognac and extra tomato paste add more depth and complexity of flavor. The cognac in Tyler’s recipe is added after the beef is browned and cooked in a bit of flour. It is used to deglaze the pan and free all those tasty brown bits from the bottom of the pan. The addition of butter to finish the sauce adds some extra richness (and in the style of Julia Child, what is not made better with a little butter?). Those are the key differences that I believe makes Tyler’s version superior.
As much as I am a Julia devotee, I urge you to try Tyler Florence’s version. Make them both and decide for yourself. And don’t forget to serve your Boeuf Bourguignon over creamy mashed potatoes.
Here’s the recipe, verbatim; I wouldn’t change a thing!
Beef Bourguignon
from “Tyler Florence’s Real Kitchen”
Serves 6 to 12 * Makes 3 quarts
Canola oil
4 bacon slices
3 ½ to 4 pounds beef chuck or round, cut in 2 x 2 inch cubes
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
½ cup all purpose flour
¼ cup Cognac
1 bottle dry red wine, such as Burgundy
1 (14 ½ ounce) can low-sodium beef broth
2 tablespoons tomato paste
Bouquet garni (1 fresh rosemary sprig, 8 fresh thyme sprigs, 2 bay leaves, tied together with a strip of leek)
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 cups pearl onions, blanched and peeled
1 pound white mushrooms, stems trimmed
Pinch of sugar
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped for garnish
Place a large Dutch oven over medium heat; drizzle with a ½-count of oil. Fry the bacon until crisp and then remove it to a paper towel; you’ll crumble it at the end and use it for garnish. Add the beef to the pot in batches. Fry the cubes in the bacon fat until evenly browned on all sides; turn with tongs. Season with salt and pepper. (Don’t skimp on this step – it’s key.)
After the meat is browned, put it all back in the pot. Sprinkle the flour over the meat; then stir to make sure the beef is well coated and there are not flour lumps. Pour in the Cognac and stir to scrape up the flavorful bits in the bottom of the pan. Cook and stir to evaporate the alcohol. Pour in the red wine and beef broth; then add the tomato paste and bouquet garni. Stir everything together and bring the pot up to a simmer. Cook until the liquid starts to thicken and has the consistency of a sauce; this should take about 15 minutes. Cover the pot, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour.
Uncover the pot and add the garlic, pearl onions, and mushrooms, along with a pinch of sugar to balance out the acid from the red wine. Season with salt and pepper. Turn the heat up slightly and simmer for 30 to 45 minutes longer, until the vegetables and meat are tender. Remove the bouquet garni and then stir in the butter to finish up the sauce. Shower with chopped parsley and the reserved crumbled bacon before serving. Deep and rich flavor!